Royal Oak 15202 MK1 | steel Audemars Piguet

It’s been 45 years since the creation of the original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and this now classic piece, is more popular than ever. First unveiled by Audemars Piguet in the 1970s and designed by Gerald Genta, who incidentally designed the Patek Philippe Nautilus amongst others, the Royal Oak has become a cultural icon due to its distinctive features and its role as a pioneer for high-end luxury sports watches.

The reference 15202 in particular, harks back to much admired Royal Oaks of the 1970s, displaying the ‘AP’ logo at 6 o’clock (reminiscent of early ‘A-series’ examples), with a ‘tapisserie’ pattern dial and luminous hands and hour markers – classically sized, at 39mm in case diameter.

In 2012, AP released the reference 15202 (in steel and rose gold) to mark the ref. 5402‘s 40th anniversary. This rare, ’MK1’ example from the first year of production, displays characteristics unique to earlier pieces, with a lighter blue, ‘large tapisserie’ dial, lightly-pronounced ’Swiss-made’ font and thin ‘AP’ logo.

This steel, Royal Oak 15202 watch is the perfect balance between utilitarian function and elegant design. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges. The polished screws, bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. At 39mm in diameter, and only 7mm thick, this Royal Oak case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. The outer-case back correctly displays the unique serial number (H5XXX), consistent with ‘MK1’ designation.

This 15202 is distinguished by the placement of the ‘AP’ logo above 6 o’clock, compared to most recent Royal Oak examples typically bearing the ‘AP’ logo at 12 o’clock, throughout modern production. The weaving pattern of the large ‘tapisserie’ pattern dial, forming the square and lozenge motif, alters the light blue coloration of the dial as it reflects light from different angles. The dial further features a matching blue date aperture at 3 o’clock and luminous hands and hour-markers.

The 15202 Royal Oak is powered by the ultra-thin AP caliber 2121, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin automatic 2121 calibre features 36 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The AP calibre 2121 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most stunningly refined and technically impressive wrist-watch movements ever made.

This example comes as a full-set, with its original box and stamped paperwork.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look